From Waterfalls to Wildlife: A Family Road Trip in BC's Interior
Only 350 km sits between Kamloops, Clearwater, and Williams Lake. Despite this short distance (in Canadian terms), these 3 places offer a large variety of bike trails & activities. From vast & flowy to steep & loose, there is something for everyone. And when your legs need a break from all of the riding, take some time to explore these unique communities and the colourful aprés scene they offer. My husband Kyle, 12 year old daughter, Gaia, and I spent a week road trippin’ this route.
Clearwater: The traditional unceded territorial lands of the Simpcw First Nation.
At the Candle Creek Trails, we meet up with Jamie, his wife Erin, and their two kids aged 12 & 10. The staging area is full of chatter as we gear up and unload the bikes for the day. I get a subtle side eye from some of the kids as I explain that the first lap will be a climb.
Every so often, we take a water break and the jellybeans bust out. Few things motivate a kid more than a handful of sweets, and this is just the right amount of inspiration to keep them going. We merge onto Fiddler’s Green, a beautiful forest sheltered from the sunlight by the giant cedar trees. From Fiddler’s Green, we sweep down to Sweet Jane through the purples, yellows, and pinks of June bloom wildflowers.
The second lap is a shuttle much to the teen girls’ delight. The kids ramp themselves up and tackle new black features on Pub Feed before we coast down to the expansive views of Raft Rim. Spirits are high as everyone feels confident and accomplished from a full day of riding and skill progression. Back at the parking lot, Erin and I offer to hang with the kids while the dads rip up for a speed lap.
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Family Riding Pro Tip: it’s no surprise that little legs get tired faster and breaks are often required. Link up with another family so that you can all take turns watching kids in the staging area while the parents get a few adult laps in. |
No full day of bikes is a wrap without a stellar dinner, so we head over to the Hop n’ Hog for some smoked meats and BC brews. We settle into our table under the comfort of the covered patio just as an intense rain storm hits. Little giggles float towards us as a group of toddlers from a nearby table run away from the shelter and onto the grass to spin and jump in the rain.
We laze around camp, sipping our coffees in the morning sun. Gaia is bargaining for additional baked goods before we even reach the Farmer’s Market (Saturdays in the summer) full of locally crafted goodies and locally grown produce. I am taken aback by the massive size of the ostrich eggs displayed at one booth. I don’t even have a pan that would fit an egg that big.
Clearwater is also the gateway to Wells Gray Provincial Park, known for its waterfalls, and for good reason. With easy access to several waterfalls; each unique not only in shape, but also in ability for interaction. Some you can admire from a distance, while others you can almost touch. We choose to visit Silvertip Falls, a less popular waterfall. We make sure to stay on the path for Leave No Trace principles, but the forest laden with devil’s club is also a great reminder not to stray.
Afterward, we stop in at the Gateway Grill for dinner before heading back to our campsite of choice: Dutch Lake campground. We’re not quite living our best van life yet so our 4 person tent looks a little out of place at this RV campground, but the close proximity to town and the shower/laundry facilities have sold us. Another great option for bikers (as long as you don’t mind a baby wipe shower) is the rec site right at the Candle Creek Trail Network.
Before hitting Highway 24 down to Williams Lake, we stop at Backcountry Bowls for coffee and lunch. Their vegetarian menu is in high contrast to Hop n’ Hog’s savoury meats but is also jam-packed with delicious flavour.
Highway 24
Heading west from Clearwater to Williams Lake we take Highway 24. Riddled with lakes and open sky, Highway 24 is a fisher’s dream. The truck is full of silly songs, funny faces, laughter, and some genuine conversations. There is no better time to scratch the superficial surface of conversation than a 3-hour drive.
Williams Lake: the traditional territory of the Secwepemc First Nation, and neighbouring the T’elecemc First Nation and Xat’súll First Nation.
Desous is a short drive from Williams Lake. It’s famous for its gnarly lines and singletrack glory. At the Desous recreation site we meet up with Beth, Derek, their teenage daughter, and another Beth. Gaia hangs back at camp with the family while Beth shows us the ropes on the trails Desous and Oosous. I am feeling a little intimidated but as soon as I get my first taste of Desous I am hooked. We have so much fun that Kyle decides to fight the sunset and take Gaia back up for one last lap. Cruising up the dirt road, the sky is littered with the soft pinks of sunset and the forest echoes with the blues hues of dusk.
In the morning we sit around camp discussing the plan for the day. This time we opt to ride down the other side of Desous which requires either a lengthy shuttle or a significant pedal to get back to camp. Derek kindly offers to shuttle us back- talk about community spirit! The day is hot and dry but the area has seen a bit of rain recently. As a result, Soo Loong is beautifully tacky. Eagles circle us as we cruise out of the trees and into the ravine, opening up to stunning views of the canyon. This is the Williams Lake I’ve always pictured- wild, and rugged, yet also welcoming. As we roll up to the truck, covered in sweat and dust Gaia exclaims, “well, that was exhilarating.”
Our second night we want more of a community vibe, so we pack up camp and set up at the William’s Lake Stampede grounds for a quintessential William’s Lake experience. I have to admit, the showers are a great perk after 2 days of riding in the hot sun. Fox Mountain Brewing is the perfect place to sit back with a meal and reminisce about the lines we tackled. As soon as the last bite is gone, we embrace our competitive nature by busting out the crokinole board from the game nook.
The early morning weather doesn’t look great, but the smooth corners of Loose Moose on Fox Mountain are calling our names so we reconnect with our shuttle angel Derek to lap Fox Mountain. At the bottom of Loose Moose, there is an option to bike down to the visitor center/museum which also hosts a bike wash station- perfect for spraying the grime off from our wet ride.
Stepping back in time, we stroll through the visitor centre and into the museum admiring artifacts like a typewriter, old dentist tools, and a phone booth. It’s wild to think that phone booths have become historical artifacts. Being in my mid 30’s, I still remember the days they actually graced the streets.
Highway 97 takes us toward Kamloops. The colourful hills of the area are a photographer's dream. In Cache Creek, A sign for Desert Hills Ranch lures us into a market/taco stand for some of the best tacos I’ve had.
Kamloops: unceded ancestral lands of the Secwépemc Nation
After a few nights of tenting, the smile on Gaia’s face stretches from ear to ear as we pull up to the Prestige Kamloops. The suite we are staying in has a small kitchen, 2 beds, and a generous amount of space for our bikes and the substantial amount of luggage we’ve accumulated.
Isagani, located right in the hotel, proves to be the perfect choice for breakfast and they provide what I believe may be the best toast and egg breaky I’ve ever had, although the toasted marshmallow waffles looked pretty appetizing as well. A quick visit to the local farmer’s market (2 locations Wednesday & Saturday) and a second shot of caffeine from Amplified Café later, we are ready to ride the Dufferin/Kenna trails.
Mount Dufferin / Kenna Cartright
The newly completed KBRA progression park at Dufferin is the perfect place to warm up. We love skills parks because they’re easy to lap and a great location to practice - they’re definitely not just for kids! After a couple of features, we’re ready to ride up to the Kenna Cartright viewpoint for sunset. There is nothing like a short & steep pitch to get your heart pumping, and I somehow find myself on a couple of them. I think there must be an easier route, but we’re already in it now. We admire the panoramic view and zip back down to the truck.
Three words: Breakfast Spring Rolls. It’s definitely not something that I’ve ever attempted in my culinary pursuits, but low and behold- here we are, sitting on Victoria Street eating breaky spring rolls, sipping on fabulous lattés and I may or may not be drinking a celebratory mimosa. We are on vacation after all.
A key to successful bike road trips as a family is to break up the biking with activities catered to all family members’ interests. Following this advice, and taking into consideration my daughter’s affection for animals, we book an afternoon at the BC Wildlife Park. We pull up our loaded truck just in time for an up-close and personal encounter with two of the resident burrowing owls. Outside, we leisurely stroll along the 106 acres of animal enclosures. The sun beams down on us but with water bottle refill stations in several locations throughout the park, as well as a spray park & shelter halfway, it proves fairly easy to cool down.
We are starving by the time we leave so we head straight for Red Beard Cafe and share a combination of appies that blow my mind. How do they make sausage and french fries taste so good? This staple is layered with a bunch of delightful sauces and the result would please even the bougiest of visitors.
The beautiful golden sunlight catches the mountain tops as we take the 30-minute drive out to Harper Mountain, embracing the cooler temperatures that evening brings. Kamloops can get pretty warm during the summer so it’s best to plan your rides for either early evening or early morning. Our friend, Andrea and her partner are waiting for us in the parking lot. Andrea suggests riding Easy Rider to a new trail named Cucwéll. Easy Rider is the perfect warmup lap- fun & flowy. Cucwéll is a newly opened trail named after the Secwépemc word for “trail.” We pop in and out of the trees, catching the last beams of sunlight.
Lac Du Bois Grasslands (Batchelor)
It has been 7 straight days of riding, so in the morning Kyle and I offer Gaia the opportunity to relax at the hotel while we go for a pedal and she graciously accepts the break. At Lac Du Bois the morning air is finally cool and as soon as we hit the trail, a soft rain keeps us refreshed and awake. Snaking in and out of the beautiful muted greens of the sagebrush, we don’t see any buildings until we reach the first viewpoint. It feels so isolated, it’s hard to believe this riding area is so close to town. Kyle and I discuss which route to take back, finally deciding to ride Cows with Guns to the Tower Classic, a smooth singletrack two-way that offers lots of visibility and the chance to really let loose. We have absolutely earned our lunch by now so we grab Gaia from the hotel and stop in at Kekuli Cafe, an Indigenous-owned eatery featuring everything Bannock. They have it all from bannock tacos, to salad with bannock, but the star of the show is the massive selection of bannock desserts. You might just regret it if you walk out without one.
How lucky we are to live in a part of the world with such diverse landscapes. It was a pleasure to sample so many different trails across these 3 communities. Being able to share these experiences with my family is the cherry on top. We always come back from these trips with a deeper knowledge of each other and so many great memories. This was no exception. We made new friends, met up with old friends, pushed our limits and conquered some pretty rad trails.
Special thanks to Tourism Kamloops, City of Williams Lake, and Tourism Wells Gray for their support and helpful information resources. And a big shout out to the local clubs; Kamloops Bike Rides Association, Williams Lake Cycling Club, and the Wells Gray Outdoors Club. Please join or donate to the clubs where you ride to help support the work they do to maintain the trails.